HOW TO REPLACE iPHONE X FACE ID

 

iPhone X Face ID Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

71

Time Required

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Sections

10

• SIM Card2 steps
• Pentalobe Screws1 step
• Opening Procedure10 steps
• Display Assembly8 steps
• Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly10 steps
• Lower Speaker10 steps
• Taptic Engine3 steps
• Battery11 steps
• Front Camera Assembly4 steps
• Logic Board (Motherboard)12 steps

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Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Introduction

Apple has paired a couple of assemblies to the logic board, presumably for security purposes to ensure that Face ID can't be hacked. Therefore it is impossible for the do-it-yourself repairer to replace any of those three parts and still have Face ID work.

The only thing an average person can do outside of taking the phone to Apple for repair is to replace all three parts together with ones salvaged from an original phone. Here's what's needed:

- Logic Board

- Front Facing Camera Assembly (Paired to that logic board)

- Proximity Sensor / Earphone Assembly (Paired to that logic board)

That being said, there are other repairs that can be made if Face ID stops working, but they generally require skill in microsoldering; not something just anyone can do. For example, the flex cable that connects the front camera to the logic board can get damaged and it is possible to replace it; it's just that it's very difficult without precise equipment and a particular set of skills.

This guide will step you through replacing the three paired components from a damaged phone into a new phone.

Tools

• SIM Card Eject Tool
• Phillips #000 Screwdriver
• P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone
• iOpener
• iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)
• Suction Handle
• iSclack
• Spudger
• Tweezers
• Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver

Parts

• iPhone X Motherboard with Face ID

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Step 1 SIM Card




• Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the side button on the edge of the iPhone.
• Press firmly to eject the tray.
Step 2



• Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
• The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
• When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
• A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your iPhone's internal components.
Step 3 Pentalobe Screws

• Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
• Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
• Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
• If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.
• Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Step 4 Opening Procedure

• Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
• Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
Step 5



• The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
• If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.
• Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
• Press both suction cups firmly into place.
• If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.
Step 6




• Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
• Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap.
• Skip the next two steps.
Step 7



• If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
• If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Step 8




• Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap.
• The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
Step 9




• Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
• Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
Step 10




• Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
• Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
Step 11




• The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
• Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
• The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
• Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
• Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Step 12

• Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
• If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.
Step 13




• Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
• Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
• As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.
• Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
• During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.
Step 14 Display Assembly

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• Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
• Three 1.1 mm screws
• One 3.1 mm screw
• One 3.7 mm screw
• Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
Step 15

• Remove the bracket.
• The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
• During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.
Step 16



• Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
• Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
• Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
Step 17



• Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Step 18



• Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
• To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 19



• Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
• This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
• If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.
Step 20




• The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
• Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
Step 21

• Remove the display assembly.
• During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.
Step 22 Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly

• Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.
Step 23




• Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now.
• During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.
Step 24

• Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
• One 1.6 mm screw
• One 1.3 mm screw

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Step 25



• The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
• Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
• The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.
Step 26

• Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
Step 27




• Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
• Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
• If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
Step 28




• Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
• Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
• It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.
Step 29



• Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
• The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.
Step 30




• If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
• If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
• During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
• Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.
Step 31




• Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
• During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
• Proximity sensor
• Flood illuminator
• The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.
Step 32 Lower Speaker



• Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone.
• Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
• Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
• One Y000 1.2 mm screw
• One Y000 1.6 mm screw
• One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
• One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
• One Phillips 1.5 mm screw
Step 33



• Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.
Step 34



• While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.
Step 35

• Remove the bracket.
Step 36



• Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.
Step 37

• Remove the speaker connector cover.
Step 38



• Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.
Step 39



• When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out.
• Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.
• Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.
• When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.
Step 40




• Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
• Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.
Step 41



• Remove the speaker.
• The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.
• To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.
Step 42 Taptic Engine



• Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.
Step 43



• Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.
Step 44

• Remove the Taptic Engine.
Step 45 Battery

• The iPhone X's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.
• Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.
Step 46




• Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
• Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you're having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.
• Don't jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.
Step 47




• Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
• Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.
Step 48




• In the following steps, you'll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease.
• If the strips break, don't panic! They don't always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.
• To increase your odds of success:
• Don't press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
• Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
• Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
• Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn't snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
• If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.
Step 49




• Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
• Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
• The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
• If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
• If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.
Step 50




• Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.
Step 51




• Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.
Step 52



• The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care.
• Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.
Step 53




• Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.
• The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don't press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery.
• If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
• If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
• Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
• Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
• Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.
• For alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case, continue to the next step below.
Step 54 Alternative method to unstick the battery from the case



• If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
• Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
• Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
• Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
• Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
• If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.
Step 55

• Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
• If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
• Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.
• Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
• Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
• If your new battery does not come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
• Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Step 56 Front Camera Assembly




• Using the flat end of a spudger, disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:
• The dot projector.
• The front camera.
• The infrared camera.
Step 57




• The camera cables are lightly adhered to the midframe.
• Using the tip of a spudger, start at the connector and slide the spudger between the IR camera cable and the case to separate the cable from the case.
• Repeat for the front camera cable.
Step 58

• Apply heat to loosen the adhesive on the front camera assembly.
Step 59




• Remove the front camera assembly.
Step 60 Logic Board

• Disconnect the following cable connectors.
• The WiFi Antenna connector.
• The Wide-Angle Camera connector.
• The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
• The Telephoto Camera connector.
• The Dock Flex connector.
• The Button / Wireless Charging connector.
• The Cellular Antenna connector.
Step 61 WiFi Antenna Connector



• Disconnect the WiFi Antenna cable connector.
Step 62 Wide-Angle Camera Connector

• Disconnect the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector.
Step 63 Power Button / Flash / Microphone Connector



• Disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector.
Step 64 Telephoto Camera Connector



• Disconnect the Telephoto Camera cable connector.
Step 65 Dock Flex Connector



• Disconnect the Dock Flex cable connector.
• Bend the cable 90 degrees straight up to allow clearance to remove the logic board.
Step 66 Button / Wireless Charging Connector



• Disconnect the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector.
Step 67 Cellular Antenna Connector




• Disconnect the Cellular Antenna cable connector.
• Bend the cable out of the way.
Step 68




• The logic board cannot be removed with the SIM card tray in place. If you failed to remove it earlier, take it out now.
• Remove the two Phillips mounting screws.
• One 2.7 mm Phillips screw.
• One 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
• Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.
• Remove the grounding tab.
• Be sure to replace the metal grounding tab in the same orientation.
Step 69 Retract the SIM Eject Pin

• When the SIM card is ejected, a pin slides out from the frame and pushes on the eject lever in the SIM card carrier. The pin needs to be pushed back into the frame so it will not block the removal of the logic board.
Step 70




• Use a pair of fine tip tweezers to slide the SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case.
• The eject lever should look like this when you're done. The pin will no longer block the removal of the logic board.
Step 71



• The logic board assembly is mounted on two posts going through the lower board and are secured to the upper board. In order to remove it, you must lift it evenly straight up to clear the stand-offs.

 CONCLUSION

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.