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iPhone X Earpiece Speaker Replacement Without Losing Face ID

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

27

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

4

• Pentalobe Screws1 step
• Opening Procedure10 steps
• Display Assembly8 steps
• Earpiece Speaker8 steps

Flags

1

Member-Contributed Guide

An awesome member of our community made this guide. It is not managed by iFixit staff.

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the earpiece speaker without losing Face ID.

The earpiece speaker is only connected to the front sensor array by two solder points, so while this procedure does require a minimum amount of soldering, it is relatively easy to do and will allow you to keep the existing front sensor array and not affect the phone's ability to use Face ID.

In fact, you don't even have to remove the front sensor array to do this repair, making it actually easier than the full iPhone X Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly Replacement guide.

This guide was inspired by a YouTube video by Tech MD Youtube who figured out how to do this procedure.

iPhone 11 Pro Max Ear Speaker and battery Replacement Keep Face ID Detailed - YouTube

Tools

• P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone
• iOpener
• iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)
• Suction Handle
• iSclack
• Spudger
• Tweezers
• Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver

Parts

• iPhone X Earpiece Speaker (only)

  Available for sale on Amazon

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• 

  iPhone X Earpiece Speaker

  $19.99

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Step 1 Pentalobe Screws

• Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
• Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
• Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
• If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.
• Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
Step 2 Opening Procedure

• Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
• Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
Step 3



• The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
• If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.
• Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
• Press both suction cups firmly into place.
• If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.
Step 4




• Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
• Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap.
• Skip the next two steps.
Step 5



• If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
• If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Step 6




• Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
• Insert an opening pick into the gap.
• The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
Step 7




• Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
• Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
Step 8




• Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
• Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
Step 9




• The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
• Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
• The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
• Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
• Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

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Step 10

• Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
• If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.
Step 11




• Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
• Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
• As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.
• Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
• During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.
Step 12 Display Assembly

TOOL USED ON THIS STEP:
Magnetic Project Mat
$19.99
• Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
• Three 1.1 mm screws
• One 3.1 mm screw
• One 3.7 mm screw
• Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
Step 13

• Remove the bracket.
• The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
• During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.
Step 14



• Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
• Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
• Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.
Step 15



• Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Step 16



• Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
• To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 17



• Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
• This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
• If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.
Step 18




• The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
• Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
Step 19

• Remove the display assembly.
• During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.
Step 20 Earpiece Speaker

• Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.
Step 21




• Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now.
• During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.
Step 22

• Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
• One 1.6 mm screw
• One 1.3 mm screw
Step 23



• The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
• Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
• The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.
Step 24



• Remove the tape covering the solder points.
Step 25




• Apply flux to the two solder points.
Step 26




• While holding the flex cable with a pair of tweezers, apply heat to the first solder pad. As soon as the solder melts, pull the iron away and lift the flex cable to keep it from re-adhering to the earpiece speaker when the solder cools.
• Repeat for the other solder pad.
Step 27

• The earpiece speaker has been removed.

 CONCLUSION

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.